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South Africa's Western Cape

Where Two Oceans and Many Cultures Meet

Each weekend, throughout the Western Cape, the colourful tables, umbrellas and canopies of countless craft markets blossom like spring flowers after the first good rains.

Drawing huge crowds eager to haggle and barter for favoured treasures, Western Cape crafters specialise in crafts ranging through the visual and culinary arts.

Whether you buy a pair of handmade velskoen, settle down to a gastronomic feast of melktert, fall for an arresting West Coast seascape in oils, an inventive piece of urban art fashioned from wire, a particular piece of embroidery, a posy of dried wild flowers or merely browse the skills of locals while chewing on a boerewors roll or piece of biltong, you'll quickly develop a taste for our essentially Western Cape arts and crafts.

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Time and its Tides

A springtide of 17th Century European colonialism brought a cultural sea change to the western Cape, swamping the ancient Khoi Khoi and the San, sweeping them to extinction. Today, rich, ochre-coloured rock paintings throughout the province speak mutely of an age-old culture of self-sufficiency.

Succeeding European occupations, the migrating Nguni and the consequences of their interactions voice themselves in our art galleries, architecture, oral history and house, working and open-air museums.

Wing your way through the high-speed exhibits propelling Ysterplaat's SA Air Force Museum and drop anchor in Simon's Town's museum where a ghost and a pub keep legendary Able Seaman Just Nuisance on a tight leash.

In the South African Navy's 75th year, make the nearby South African Naval Museum's life-size dioramas your next port of call. thereafter, set sail for Stellenbosch's Living Village Museum where you'll discover that, while everything changes, the gracious charm of South Africans does not!

Deep in the heart of the province, the Beaufort West Museum commemorates how, in 1969, Dr Chris Barnard set the world's pulse racing and Mr Louis Waskanski's donated heart beating. Reel in a line of costal museums, from Knysna (piscatology and icthyology), Mossel Bay (the interactive Bartholomeu Dias Museum Complex) and Bredasdorp (a haunting shipwreck museum) to Cape Agulhas (the historic Pharos-style beacon lighting the way of those rounding Africa's southern tip).

The Western Cape has weathered history's storms well. The Bo-Kaap Museum reflects our marriage of East and West; the Mayibuye Centre portrays the struggle of South Africans to realise their birthright and, by illustrating forced removals, the District Six Museum testifies to the spirit of those subjected to apartheid's social engineering.

Alternatively, rural Moravian missions at Elim, Genadendal and Wuppertal show the clergy's commitment to nurturing our spiritual and educational well-being. Living legacies are all about us.

So, whether you enjoy a cultural festival or treat the kids at the historical Victoria & Alfred Waterfront's Telkom Exploratorium, you'll be adding to our remarkable history as you share in it.

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A Natural and Unspoilt Beauty

Natural beauty surrounds us. Soaring mountain peaks, merging oceans, enchanted forests, bountiful fauna, spectacular peninsulas and wildly romantic capes bless us with an embarrassment of scenic riches.

The smallest, yet most diverse of the world's six Floral Kingdoms, the Cape Peninsula is home to more than 8 500 indigenous plant species or fynbos, among them the imperious King Protea and the provincial flower, the Red Disa.

As the blazing West Coast spreads its cobalt sky over the eastern interior's rolling plains and rich citrus orchards, the green-and-gold wheat and sheep-farming Overberg crosses the majestic Swartberge to the arid Karoo's desert spaces, both regions pushing hard against the tropical forests and warm ocean gracing nature's nursery, the mystical Garden Route.

Our sun drenched, sandy beaches coexist with jagged spines of rock, often replete with the skeletal remains of broken-backed ships. Broad, lazy rivers meander across wide landscapes or cascade in misty, rainbow grandeur down precipitous gorges carved in prehistoric stone.

When all's said and done, how many cities rest beneath a towering mountain with an ocean to their fore?

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Passing Through

Chapman's Peak Drive, between Hout Bay and Noordhoek on the Cape Peninsula, is one of the world's most breathtaking cliffside marine drives. Yet it is only one of many spectacular passes traversing the wave of mountains thrown up by unimaginable prehistoric forces to separate a narrow coastal plain from the vast continental plateau.

The 129 000 square kilometres making up our province contain many tributes to the road engineer's art, with successive mountain passes offering panoramic vistas of seemingly endless tracts of land stretching to forever.

Leaving the Cape Peninsula, cross either Sir Lowry's Pass into the Overberg or Du Toit's Kloof Pass into the Breede River Valley. Although the futuristic Huguenot Tunnel offers you a smoother, faster alternative, avoid it. From within, mountains are singularly unspectacular!

Travel on to the magnificent Cederberg Mountains over Middelberg Pass or approach them from Piekenierskloof Pass. Both are particularly impressive when spring paints the mountainside with broad brushstrokes of brilliant flowering colour.

Beyond the Overberg, over Tradouws Pass, the Klein Karoo Kannaland and the Central Karoo - divided by the Swartberge (Black Mountains) - are joined by the challenging Swartberg Pass and the equally awe-inspiring Meiringspoort and Seweweekspoort Passes.

South of the Swartberge, the Garden Route's densely forested and wonderfully circuitous Bloukrans, Grootrivier and Homtini Passes will sate your senses with nature's mastery of creative invention.

Wonderment is every traveller's companion in the Western Cape. From our privileged vantage points above the towns and valleys we visit, we're able to place them in unique and unforgettably picturesque perspectives.

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The Wine Routes

No visit to the Western Cape is complete without a visit to at least one of our fourteen world-renowned wine routes. Among the blue-tinged mountains and emerald-green vineyards graced by elegantly stark white farmsteads, our Cape Dutch and Huguenot heritages have combined to blend a cultural cultivar of fine wines and warm, gracious people.

Developed over three hundred years, the fourteen gems in the Cape vintner's crown include the Constantia, Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Paarl, Wellington, Worcester, Tulbagh, Robertson, Durbanville, Helderberg, Overberg, Swartland, Olifants River and Klein Karoo wine routes. Each is unique, yet equally rich in the fruits of its vines.

Stellenbosch, with twenty-two private cellars and five cooperatives, is at the heart of the original wine route. Franschhoek, influenced by French settlement, Wellington and Paarl, headquarters of KWV, the wine industry's umbrella organisation, comprise the wine routes falling in the Winelands region. The smaller Durbanville, the recently opened Helderberg and the Constantia wine routes lie closer to Cape Town. Constantia houses South Africa's oldest wine estate. The Swartland, Olifants River and Overberg routes take their names from the regions in which they fall, and the relatively far-flung Klein Karoo route produces pleasant, fruity wines, cleverly reflecting the strong contrasts of the region.

Although you'll be tempted to visit wineries and sample cultivars throughout the Western Cape, be wary - your holiday will sip... er, slip by before you know it!

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Food for Thought

Cape cuisine, as we know it today, has its roots in a year-long, enforced holiday spent here 350 years ago by members of the Dutch East India Company vessel, the Haerlem, wrecked off Milnerton in March 1647.

Rescued in 1648, survivors spoke avidly of the Cape as ideal citrus country. Following their excellent advice, the Company, on 25 March 1651, ordered that 'a general rendezvous be formed at the Cape of Good Hope' to 'provide that the East India ships may procure herbs, flesh, water, and other needful refreshments'.

Since then, lovers of fine food have not looked back.

The combined influences of Europe and the East now come to you in delectable, unique dishes including bobotie, waterblommetjie bredie and mosbolletjie bread. Sweets including koesusters and melktert are found nowhere else in the world.

A long coastline - which we must thank for the Haerlem's fateful visit - offers a plentiful supply of seafood delights such as calamari, smoked snoek, prawns and crayfish.

Whether you dine on nouvelle cuisine in a chic restaurant high above the city's twinkling lights; indulge in a fresh lobster while watching sleek yachts carve finely slivered wakes in the bay; savour a mountain view along with a rack of Karoo lamb, or enjoy a West Coast 'fish braai' on one of our many beaches, spare a thought for those discerning connoisseurs of 350 years ago. They obviously shared your taste for the finest foods.

Perhaps, after dinner, when enjoying a glass of exquisite, citrus-flavoured Van Der Hum, you might look towards Milnerton's beach and raise your glass to them.

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Carnival Capers

In the Western Cape, New Year arrives with a bang. Party animals ring in the new with fireworks, street parties and fun fests before revelling in the joyous sounds, colours and antics of the Cape Minstrel Carnival, a musical extravaganza of brightly dressed, parasol-waving troupes wending its way through central Cape Town.

January sees sport high on the agenda and fashion steps out at our answer to Ascot and the Kentucky Derby, the J&B Metropolitan Handicap run at Kenilworth. In February, Maynardville's Community Chest Carnival celebrates South Africa's diverse cultures. The fit and healthy compete in the Old Mutual Cape Town Marathon, the Boland Bank Half Marathon, the National Championship Motor Races at the Killarney circuit and Worcester's Mountain Bike Championships.

For the more sedentary, Kirstenbosch's Sunday concerts showcase musical talent from December to March in the mountain-shaded splendour of the National Botanical Gardens.

March sees the Argus/Pick 'n Pay Cycle Tour circling the Peninsula, the Western Cape Yellowfin Challenge reeling in the big 'uns, the Klein Karoo National Arts Festival canvassing artistic talent and the University of Cape town's Rag Procession putting forward the city's prettiest face.

A robust combination of sporting events and wine festivals dominate April, May and June. In July, Knysna's Oyster Festival and Worcester's South African Fancy Pigeon Championships highlight the unusual.

August and September herald spring with a profusion of wild flowers and many towns hold Wild Flower Shows. October sees Food and Wine Festivals in Robertson and Stellenbosch while Bonnievale, Elgin and Saldanha paint their towns red in November.

The year's end lights up the province with goodwill to all, carollers voice Christmas joy and, across the Western Cape, everybody gets ready for the inevitable party to end them all, the New Year's Eve thrash!

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A Year of Brilliant Bouquets

Since time immemorial, spring has heralded the rebirth of life rendered dormant by winter's chill. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Western Cape. With the advent of spring, Mother Nature praises the sun's return with a devastatingly beautiful show of wild flowers from Milnerton on the Peninsula to beyond the Olifants River.

From mid-July to the end of October, fields, mountains, pastures and towns are transformed into enchanting landscapes of fairytale wonder. More than 2 600 species of wild flower burst into broad palettes of surrealistic colour, each scene varying as if every corner turned presents a different but stunning canvas painted by a blazing celestial brush.

Yet, the Western Cape's floral abundance overwhelms even the splendour of spring. That the Cape Peninsula, with its dense proliferation of 8 500 indigenous plant species or fynbos, forms the smallest of the world's six Floral Kingdoms indicates the province's floral wealth.

Fynbos, usually small, delicate but hardy plants, thrives on the Western Cape's Mediterranean climate and covers the province's mountains, coasts and plains.

To really appreciate its diversity and its ability to bloom at times and in conditions that confound logic, indulge your senses in a feast of floral fantasy at any of the many reserves found in each of the province's subregions.

Wild flowers are at their best between 11h00 and 15h00, when the sun is high. Cold weather and wind stop them opening, so choose your viewing days well.

Country towns such as Clanwilliam, Darling and Caledon host flower shows as does the National Botanical Garden at Kirstenbosch in Cape Town. Flowerline, a seven-day-a-week hotline, will give you advice from July to October on where best to see the flowers and offer guidance on accommodation, tours and special attractions.

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The Fruitful Cape

Produce from the Breede River Valley, the Overberg and the Olifants River Valley fills the Cape's heavily laden fruit bowls. A surfeit of vitamin-rich oranges, apples, pears, peaches, apricots and table grapes find their way to countries around the globe.

It comes as a surprise to many that most of our national apricot exports are grown in the supposed aridity of the Klein Karoo Kannaland's Hoeko Valley, just outside Ladismith, a town famous for its high-quality fruits.

From May to June, the air around Citrusdal in the Olifants River Valley is pervaded by the scent of freshly picked oranges making their way along the conveyor belts of the town's many packing stations. About two million cases of tangy, natural goodness leave this small, unpretentious town each year.

The Breede River Valley, visited by warm summers and moist winters, is the Western Cape's largest fruit and wine producing region.

The serene, well-treed town of Ceres, fittingly named after the Roman Goddess of Fertility, lies at the centre of this natural orchard. Apricots burst into season from mid-November to mid-December, peaches from mid-February to the end of March and wine grapes from December through to April.

In the Overberg, the small town of Elgin and its surrounding farms are known worldwide for their juicy apples and, during the apple-picking season - which lasts from January until May, millions of apples are graded, washed, polished, packed, cooled and sent on the first stage of a journey to homes and tables around the globe.

The heady scent of apple blossoms is a sensory delight for visitors welcomed by the district's many packing houses and picture-perfect farms. Before you visit, though, please make prior arrangements through the local tourism authority.

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High and Low, Fast and Slow

If you're a visiting adrenalin junkie, you've come to the right place! The Western Cape will set your pulse racing. Serious rock climbing, gliding, deep-sea diving, bungi jumping, kloofing, water-skiing, rallying and rubber-ducking are regular features on our visitors' sporting menus.

If you've not come to holiday on death-defying feats, you're even better catered for. Hiking, mountain biking and 4x4 trails are plentiful, river rafting, canoeing and windsurfing conditions are superb and big-game, deep-sea fishing is, more often than not, very rewarding.

If you're a surfer, the Western Cape welcomes you to some of the world's hottest surf: Outer Kommetjie, Victoria Bay or Elandsbaai to fast, often gnarly point breaks, Kalk Bay to its rip-curling reef and countless pristine stretches of coast to their longboard-tailored beach breaks.

Less strenuous, equally fun-filled activities might see you drifting over the Winelands in a hot-air balloon, taking a helicopter flip over the city or indulging in a cruise on any one of our many lagoons.

South Africans are sport crazy and international success in soccer, cricket, golf and rugby are supported by regular international yachting, volleyball, boxing and hockey events. You'll find excellent golf courses, tennis and squash courts, swimming pools and health clubs throughout our adventurous, sporting province.

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The Whale Coast

They say recorded whale songs soothe even the most fragile psyches. If you're looking for peace and tranquility, the sight of the world's greatest mammals breaching and lobtailing as they go about courting, mating and calving a few metres from shore will give you a new zest for life.

Each year, between June and December, Southern Right whales migrate to our waters to calve and nurse their young. Their distinct, V-shaped blows draw tens of thousands of lesser. two-legged mammals to shorelines and viewing points along the Cape's south coast.

From Strandfontein on the west coast to beyond Plettenberg Bay on the south coast, with prime viewing sites at Doringbaai, Yzerfontein, De Hoop, around False Bay and Walker Bay, you stand an excellent chance of spotting Humpback and Bryde's whales as well.

A bonus for lovers of the gentle giants are sightings of schools of up to fifty of their equally popular cousins, Heaviside, Common and Bottlenose dolphins. With thirty-seven species of whale and dolphin calling the Whale Route home - the entire North Atlantic hosts only twenty-eight species, few eco-tourists go home disappointed. Beyond Struisbaai, the De Hoop Nature Reserve has, for many years, been a calving area favoured by large schools.

Establishing a better connection to the denizens of the deep, cell phone giants MTN fund the Cape Whale Route Secretariat, assist with Whale Route promotions at international tourism conferences and are developing whale-watching activities at more than fifty centres along the Whale Route. Their Whale Host Programme will reach whale watchers in South Africa, the Americas, Europe and the Far East.

Closer to home, at Walker Bay's popular Hermanus seaside resort, residents and visitors have come to depend on the sound of the MTN whale crier's kelp horn signalling the whales arrival in the bay. If you're visiting Walker Bay between June and November and find yourself beyond the reach of the kelp horn, call the whale crier on 083 2121074 or, for whale updates, contact the MTN Whale Hotline toll free on 0800 228222.

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Western Cape Snaps

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